|
EVENTS THAT HAVE SHAPED THE HISTORIC LANDSCAPE THE MILFORD
HAVEN WATERWAY
Historic administrative divisions
The pre Anglo-Norman administration of west Wales was based on small kingdoms
or gwledydd, which were established before the 8th century AD. The register
area lies within the gwlad of Dyfed which, in the early 11th, century,
became part of the larger kingdom of Deheubarth. Within each gwlad were
smaller units of administration or estates known as maenorau, attested
to have existed since the 9th century. These were composed of a number
of ‘townships’ or trefi. By the 11th century two additional
administrative tiers were introduced - the cantref, a group of 100 trefi,
each of which was subdivided into a number of cwmwdau, into which the
trefi were grouped. The ‘seven cantrefi of Dyfed’ - Pebidiog,
Cemaes, Emlyn, Rhos, Daugleddau, Gwarthaf and Penfro - became a union
that was celebrated in both history and lore. It is probable that, in
Dyfed, formal systems of native tenure and administration had not become
fixed prior to the Anglo-Norman conquest. However, status centres existed,
both secular and ecclesiastical, and of the latter the seven ‘bishop-houses’
of Dyfed are well documented.
The Anglo-Norman settlement of the Pembrokeshire region began in 1093
with the invasion of Dyfed under Roger de Montgomery, the Norman Earl
of Shrewsbury, and his establishment of a castle at Pembroke. From this
base his son, Arnulf, had by 1100 subdued the greater part of Cantref
Penfro (in the southern part of the present county), Cantref Rhos (west
of Haverfordwest), Cantref Daugleddau (in the central part of the present
county), which were reorganised as a county under Henry I - later a palatinate
of the earls of Pembroke.
The pre Anglo-Norman conquest territorial divisions remained largely
unchanged. The lordship of Haverford was more-or-less coterminous with
Cantref Rhos, as was Dungleddy with Daugleddau, and Pembroke with Penfro,
although Cwmwd Arberth was administered as a separate lordship; Narberth.
The post-medieval hundreds similarly followed the old boundaries except
in south Pembrokeshire, where Penfro was divided into Castlemartin and
Narberth hundreds. However, in all other respects the area was Anglicised.
Henry I deliberately planted large numbers of settlers, from the West
Country and Flanders, in the area, and the native administration was entirely
re-organised. Although it appears that Henry I attempted to establish
an administration based upon English civil models, the creation of the
marcher palatine lordship led to a feudalised, manorial system of tenure
based on demesne lordships and knights fees. This has given rise to the
dominant settlement pattern within the area, of small nucleations - villages,
hamlets and large farms - based on the manorial vills. Elements of the
system persisted long after the Act of Union. The lordship of Narberth,
for example, still operated its feudal manorial courts well into the 17th
century.
Prehistoric settlement, funerary and ritual
sites
Iron age settlement sites and neolithic and bronze age funerary and ritual
sites are common, but their wide dispersal and relative small size in
relation to other landscape components means that they do not strongly
characterise the area. Of the two types of monument iron age hillforts
dating to the first millennium BC are the most prominent. Inland examples
located on farmland have often been reduced in height by centuries of
agricultural use and are not as impressive as their cousins built on the
edge of sea cliffs, where forts such as Great Castle Head at Dale and
Tower Point at St Brides are some of the most massive and prominent historic
landscape components of the coastal strip. Neolithic and bronze age funerary
and ritual sites, which date to the 2nd millennium and 3rd millennium
BC, and include chambered tombs, round barrows and standing stones are
amongst the most common and important archaeological sites in the area.
Their mute presence attests to a settled farming community over 5000 years
ago. However, only at Rhoscrowther where a presumed ancient track-way
known as ‘The Ridgeway’ passes by several groups of prehistoric
monuments do funerary and ritual sites form a strong component of the
historic landscape.
Medieval towns
Towns are the most enduring physical legacy of the Anglo-Norman conquest
of south Wales. An essential strategy for the conquering lords was the
construction of castles, outside of which settlements were established
for immigrants who would eventually gain economic control of the area.
There are two such plantations within the register area. Pembroke town
does not appear to have been planned by the founders of its castle, which
was established by Roger de Montgomery and his son Arnulf in 1093, possibly
on the site of a pre-existing llys. The town was a product of the seizure
of the area by Henry I, after Arnulf’s rebellion in 1100. Henry
was particularly interested in stabilising this part of southwest Wales
as a crown holding, introducing large numbers of immigrants and granting
a charter to Pembroke. This offered the most generous terms to encourage
potential settlers. He also established a mint at Pembroke before 1130.
The town had received its walls by the 14th century which, with the castle,
still form a visually striking element of the landscape, the nearest thing
that south Wales has to the Edwardian ‘castle-boroughs’ of
north Wales. Tancard the Fleming in c.1100-10 established Haverfordwest
castle and town on a virgin site, possibly as a unit. He was probably
also acting on crown authority. Town and castle occupy the lowest bridging
point of the Western Cleddau, the strategic and economic value of which
were factors in the choice of site and its subsequent development. By
1300 the town was of a considerable size, with over 300 burgages - larger
than any of the castle-boroughs of North Wales. However, none of the town
defences survive.
Both towns were supplied by water and were important trading centres
from the first. This trade developed under the Anglo-Norman monopolies,
and by the 16th century Pembroke was a town of merchants, and was also
the site of the regional customs house. However, Haverfordwest took over
the role of county town from Pembroke during this century, by the middle
of which it could be described as ‘the best built, the most civil
and quickest occupied town in South Wales’. Both towns have a number
of later buildings. These date, in particular, to the 18th and early 19th
centuries when local gentry farmers, merchants and burgesses built town
houses within which to socialise, in lieu of attending the London season.
However, as trading centres both would soon be superseded by two, entirely
new towns – Milford Haven and Pembroke Dock.
Medieval and later villages
Small, nucleated villages are a distinctive element of southern Pembrokeshire
and in particular of the Milford Haven waterway historic landscape. Dispersed
farms are present, as they are across most of Wales, but it is the village
that distinguishes the settlement pattern of this part of Pembrokeshire
from other areas of southwest Wales. There is a strong correlation between
the nucleated village settlement type, often centred upon a church, and
the area of known Anglo-Norman settlement in southwest Wales in the 12th
century and 13th century, evidenced today by place-names, language and
other cultural indicators. It is highly likely therefore that the villages
were founded in this period in tandem with that other major component
of the English lowland agricultural landscape, the open field system.
Open fields are described below, but it is worth emphasising here the
strong correspondence between nucleated villages and the evidence for
open fields. It is also interesting to note that most villages were founded
away from the shore of Milford Haven in order to take best advantage of
the rich farmland the area had to offer: they were intended to be agricultural
communities rather than maritime communities. Historic documentation is
often ambiguous in its references to settlement pattern type, and it is
not until the mid-to-late 18th century with large-scale estate mapping
and the survey of tithe maps in c. 1840, that village morphology can be
definitely identified. Villages such as St Ishmael’s, Herbrandston,
Houghton, Great Honeyborough, Waterstone, Uzmaston and Cosheston, to name
just a few, were then small, nucleated, agricultural communities, often
still surrounded by their open field systems, or at least a few strips
from the remains of open fields. In some cases, such as Herbrandston,
the position of the church at the end of a green around which dwellings
are located suggests a planned village. Villages still exert a strong
influence on the settlement pattern of the area, although some have experienced
considerable expansion during the later 19th century and 20th century.
For instance, Great Honeyborough is now incorporated into Neyland and
Llangwn has grown considerably from its core. Others, however, such as
West Williamston, Carew Newton and Lawrenny, have changed little, and
their early morphologies and original functions are still evident.
Medieval castles
Medieval castles are one of the defining components of this area’s
landscape. These were erected in large numbers in Pembrokeshire following
the Anglo-Norman conquest of 1093, and in particular the years following
1100 as the territories were consolidated under Henry I. Many of the village
plantations and the two towns, both of which were settled with immigrant
populations, were established around an earthwork castle. Some of these
were not rebuilt in stone, but have left earthwork remains at, for instance,
St Ishmaels, and probably also at Rosemarket and Walwyn’s Castle
where the village morphology suggests that the settlements were axial
upon earthwork sites that, while of unknown date, possibly represent re-used
iron age enclosures. An iron age promontory fort at Dale appears to have
been similarly re-used as an earthwork castle, re-located in the later
medieval period when a manor-house was established on the present site.
The motte at Picton was also abandoned in favour of a masonry castle constructed
nearby.
It is the degree of later medieval masonry rebuilding that really sets
this part of Pembrokeshire apart from other regions of southwest Wales.
There are a number of major stone castles, of which Pembroke, Haverfordwest
and Carew still form powerful visual elements of the landscape. Carew
was associated with a shrunken medieval settlement. Lesser masonry castles
survive at Picton, Upton and Benton (Burton), the latter two being very
small, but fully-developed enclosure castles. In contrast are those sites
that can better be described as fortified manor-houses, which again are
particularly dense in this part of Pembrokeshire. Castell Coch (Minwear),
a large, masonry hall-house within a walled and ditched enclosure, was
the caput of the manor of Newhouse. Angle and Eastington (Rhoscrowther)
are similar late medieval, first floor hall-houses, while the manor of
Cresselly, probably a possession of the Augustinian priory at Haverfordwest,
lies within a semi-fortified enclosure. The late medieval Dale Castle
appears to have been semi-fortified, while there are contemporary tower-houses
at both Angle Rectory and Monkton Priory. These late medieval, private
defences, which may be as late as the 16th century in the latter two cases,
appear to have been a response to water-borne threats, perhaps the threat
of French invasion or coastal raiding by pirates from Ireland and elsewhere.
Open Fields and their enclosure
During the medieval period virtually all farmland within the register
area was cultivated in open field systems (also called sub-divided fields
or common fields). In this system land was held communally, and apart
from small closes and paddocks attached to farmsteads, enclosures were
rare, and the land was divided into strips or shares within large open-fields.
Uncultivated common and waste lay beyond the open-fields. The pattern,
at least, of some of these open field systems may be early. The linear
pattern of boundaries in the south Pembrokeshire peninsula may have prehistoric
origins, and can be seen to be overlain by at least one medieval churchyard.
Close to the Milford Haven waterway, owing to the high density of population,
most land was cultivated and therefore waste and common would have comprised
small tracts of land. Traditionally, strips within the open fields were
not assigned to a farmer, but were rotated on an annual basis. However,
by the 16th century and 17th century rights of cultivation of certain
strips within the open fields became the prerogative of single farmers.
By exchange and barter several adjoining strips could be amassed. It was
then a simple process to throw a hedge around the amassed strips. By this
process the open, communally held, fields were transformed into the privately
held field systems that still exist.
Medieval and later documents refer directly and indirectly to open fields,
but it is 18th century and 19th century estate maps and tithe maps of
c. 1840 that provide the best evidence of their extent and. character.
As described above, village location and open fields have a strong correlation,
It seems highly likely that the fields were established when the villages
were founded in the 12th century and 13th century. The time and rate of
enclosure of open fields varied. At Rosemarket, for instance, Howells
(1955-56) has described how enclosure in the late 16th century by a rapacious
landlord led to the conversion of arable to pasture and the depopulation
of the village. There is now little evidence in the present landscape
of fairly regular, large fields around Rosemarket of the former open fields.
It is likely that in the same period other open-fields were being transformed
into the large fields we see today, such as Uzmaston, Rhoscrowther and
Lawrenny. It seems that it was in the 17th century and 18th century that
most enclosure took place, although in some isolated instances open field
farming continued into the early 19th century. An example of late enclosure
is at Great Honeyborough where a fully functioning open-field farming
landscape is depicted on estate maps. Some enclosure of open-fields has
left a clear imprint on the modern landscape, with, for example, parcels
of narrow strip-fields existing at St Ishmael’s, Waterstone, Houghton,
West Williamstone, Carew Newton and Cosheston.
Fields and field boundaries
Field shape and size is determined by complex social, economic and cultural
factors. As noted above, narrow strip fields are the result of 17th century
through to 19th century piecemeal enclosure of open field systems. Large
regular fields may have been the result of a variety of different, unconnected
processes. For instance, the fields of small, private estates established
in the 16th century or 17th century on land that had been open fields
may appear similar to field systems of farms carved out of common land
in the late medieval period. The small irregular fields with pockets of
woodland found at Martletwy, Landshipping, Cresswell Quay, and to some
extent Hook, probably developed during the 18th century and early 19th
century when people drawn to the area by the developing coal industry
built cottages and carved out small-holdings on commons or the relatively
poor agricultural land of the coalfield. Although there is remarkable
diversity in field shape and size, boundary types are remarkably consistent
across the whole of the Milford Haven waterway landscape. Almost all field
boundaries consist of earth and earth and stone banks topped with a hedge.
There are exceptions, but these are rare. For instance, mortared walls
are found at Lawrenny (connected with the old Lawrenny estate), at West
Williamston, and the far west of the Castlemartin Peninsula. Some dry-stone
walls can also be found at, for example West Williamston.
Post-medieval farms and estates
Farms with land held in severality, i.e. not part of open-fields or common
land, originated in one of several different ways. Towards the end of
the medieval period and in the early modern period new farms were established
away from village cores on land that had been engrossed and enclosed from
open-field strips. Alternatively, with the rise in the concept of private
ownership of land new farms were founded on former common land on the
fringes of cultivated land. It is these two methods that probably account
for the majority of the smaller, dispersed farms. It is also possible
that a single farm in a village or township became the dominant and eventually
the only holding. This process occurred over many centuries and it is
probably the method by which many of the small estates and large farms
originated, such as Liddeston, Jordanston and Robeston Hall.
In the first two methods the resulting landscape is one of relatively
small, dispersed farms set in a pattern of medium-sized, regular fields.
Small estates and large farms tend to be located on the rich farmland
towards the west of the waterway and are often associated with large,
regular fields. the buildings, (described below) of these estates often
exhibit great time depth, sometimes with late medieval or 16th century
and 17th century elements, or are substantial Georgian and/or Victorian
structures. As well as surviving buildings, the wealth of the small estate
owners is demonstrated by their willingness to commission expensive surveys
in the late 18th century and early 19th century. The resulting maps, such
as those of St Botolphs and Robeston Hall show their properties with walled
gardens, flower gardens and orchards. These dispersed, small farms, larger
farms and small estates form an important component in the historic landscape
of the Milford Haven waterway.
Parks and gardens
The area at the head of the Haven, between the Eastern and Western Cleddau,
is almost entirely occupied by post-medieval parks and estates, including
Picton and Slebech Parks both of which occupy gently sloping ground leading
down to the Haven foreshore. Lesser parks and gardens occur within the
register area but are similarly mainly confined to more sheltered sites
within this eastern section. Two of these smaller gardens, at Coedcanlas
and Landshipping, no longer exist but have been identified through aerial
photography. Both were established in the 17th century and were Renaissance
gardens comparable in scale to better-known English examples, with characteristic
formal courts and terraces. Like Picton and Slebech they lie on gently
sloping ground leading down to the Milford Haven foreshore.
A formal park was first created at Picton Castle in the later 17th century,
and was also in the Renaissance manner, but was extensively remodelled
in the Romantic tradition in the 18th century and 19th century, when a
belvedere was established on the old motte. Although there are 18th century
elements to the gardens, much of the planting was carried out in a picturesque
style in about 1800 and has been modified by much recent planting. The
landscape of gardens, parkland, woodland and estate farms still fundamentally
survives close by at Slebech Park, which was laid out at about the same
time. Many of its elements also survive, with formal gardens including
terraces overlooking the Milford Haven.waterway. Other structures associated
with Picton and Slebech, such as stable blocks, lodges and walled gardens
are prominent and distinctive features of the landscape, while a strong
estate architectural signature to this area is maintained by the two home
farms and by The Rhos village.
Lesser parks include Upton Castle, which is similarly sited on gently
sloping ground leading down to the Haven foreshore. It features a walled
garden and orchard, an arboretum, formal terraces and a medieval chapel,
and is now managed by Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, and open to the
public. Boulston Manor and home farm lie within the remains of a similar
parkland landscape, in a similar foreshore location, with fishponds, plantations,
a lodge, and a ruined medieval church. Smaller parks, occupying similar
sites, lie around the former mansion at Lawrenny Castle, now a picnic
area, and Cosheston Hall.
The waterway, shipping and coastal trade
The superb deep water sheltered anchorage afforded by the Milford Haven
waterway has long been recognised. It was used as a muster point for the
Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland, as an invasion landing place by Owain
Glydwr and Henry Tudor, and as sheltered anchorage for the British Fleet
in the 18th century. Two of the major towns/ports of medieval and later
Wales, Haverfordwest and Pembroke, are located on the upper reaches of
the waterway. The regional customs house was located at Pembroke during
the early post-medieval period. However, the waterway’s isolated
location and its lack of a large population base ensured that its potential
as a port was not realised until the industrialisation of the late 17th
century and 18th century. There are many villages of medieval origin situated
along the waterway, but it is instructive to note that most of these lie
within fields away from the shore, indicating that agriculture not maritime
activity was their main source of income. Fishing, coastal trading and
small-scale boat building would have been undertaken from the numerous
small creeks, but amongst the villages it is probably only Dale and Angle,
both to the far west, that had a strong maritime economy. By 1700, coal
from pits at Landshipping, Cresswell, Hook and Llangwn was the major export
from the Milford Haven waterway. Many small quays developed to serve this
industry. Numerous limekilns along the shore are evidence of the increasing
importance of coastal trade. Indeed, it is a rare creek that does not
have a limekiln. By the late 18th century the need for a town close to
deep-water anchorages to service large ships and provide a port for Irish
packets led to the foundation of Milford Haven. A few years later naval
dockyards and the town of Pembroke Dock were established. These towns,
together with Neyland, are described below. The coming of the railways
in the mid 19th century diminished coastal trade, but small ships continued
to call at Haverfordwest, Pembroke and other quays into the 20th century,
and both Milford Haven and Neyland became important fishing ports. Apart
from oil tankers that service three refineries constructed in the late
20th century, fishing boats at Milford Haven and the Irish ferry that
operates out of the old dockyards at Pembroke Dock, there is very little
commercial traffic on the waterway. Two marinas, at Milford Haven and
Neyland, have been opened and many of the industrial slips and quays are
now used by leisure craft.
Communications
Historically the waterway always has been the most important communications
artery within this area. However, there were early overland routes. The
most important of these was the ‘Ridgeway’, a routeway across
the spine of the south Pembrokeshire peninsula, which ran along the crest
of the limetone ridge between Angle in the west and Tenby in the east.
The concentration of prehistoric monumental sites along this routeway
suggests that it has prehistoric origins, possibly in the neolithic period,
and the linear field system which so strongly characterises this region
is axial upon its line. Romanisation of this part of Pembrokeshire was
slight, and the main east-west Roman road lay some distance north of this
area. It appears that the present A40 follows the line of a major medieval
routeway, and Canaston Bridge which carries the road over the head of
the eastern Cleddau has medieval origins. Some other early routeways can
be traced within the landscape. For example, Haverfordwest – which,
by the later medieval period, was one of the largest towns in Wales –
lies at the node of 12 roads and tracks, most of which probably have medieval
origins, while a disused trackway leading through Minwear parish to the
Slebech ferry may also be of medieval origin.
The medieval route beneath the A40 was partly re-aligned, straightened,
and turnpiked during the late 18th century, as was the A4075 between Canaston
Bridge and Carew. However, it was the 19th century industrial development
of the area, and the establishment of the commercial ports of Milford
Haven and Pembroke Dock, that placed the greatest demand on its communications.
Significant road improvements were carried out, in the 1830s, between
Carmarthen and Pembroke Dock, after surveys by Thomas Telford. A railway
network, moreover, was planned at the relatively early date of 1845. However,
due to delays a line to Milford Haven was not constructed until 1863,
as a spur from the Neyland line of 1856, and Pembroke Dock was not served
by rail until 1864. Both lines remain operational. A number of spur lines,
for private-owner use, were subsequently constructed to link the harbours,
docks and refineries with the rail network. Some of these are still in
use.
Forestry and woodland
The eastern half of the register area, in the upper reaches of the Haven,
was heavily wooded during the historic period, and much of it still is
today. This woodland has always been intensely managed. Correctly managed
woodland could provide timber for building and ship-building, bark for
tanning and dyeing, and coppice for fuel and charcoal. Some of these wooded
areas lay – as today – on steep valley sides that had very
little other economic use. Others were extensive tracts lying on open
ground. The Medieval Forest of Narberth, for example, was recorded in
the early 12th century, when it was under royal control and its timber
was granted to the potential settlers of Pembroke with which to make their
dwellings. Minwear Woods were granted to the Knights Hospitaller of Slebech
in a 13th century grant. George Owen records that, by 1594, much of the
woodland had been felled by ‘assarting’ and the establishment
of farmland over formerly timbered areas. The manor of Newhouse, for example,
appears to have been a late creation established as an assart from Narberth
Forest, by the Mortimer lords of Narberth in the late 13th century. Owen
listed the ‘best standing woods’ then surviving, many of which
are still wooded today. They included, on the west side of the Haven,
the woods of Benton, Llangwm, Hook and Little Milford, on the north side
the woods of Boulston, Picton, Pickle and Toch, and on the east side,
Narberth Forest (still with forest administration well into the 17th century),
Canaston, Minwear, Coedcenlas, Cresselly, Nash and Upton. Some of these
were small pockets of woodland, described as ‘woods of divers gentlemen
sufficient to serve their houses for fuel and some for buildings’.
It was under such ‘gentlemen’ that some of this woodland
was incorporated, as both an economic and ornamental feature, into the
parks and estates that lined the waterway during the post-medieval period,
for instance at Picton Park, Slebech Park and Upton Castle Park. In complete
contrast, the dense woodland at Minwear and Canaston encouraged the early
establishment of industries within the area. George Mynne, who was granted
the right to take timber from the woods, erected a charcoal-fuelled blast
furnace at Canaston in 1635. An iron forge had been established at Blackpool
by 1760, when its lease confirmed the owner ‘the right to cut timber
in Canaston Wood within four miles of the forge’. The industries
had declined by the early 19th century, mainly due to the exhaustion of
timber. In 1794 Hassell observed that most of the woodland was oak, and
that it was managed for charcoal production and bark for tanning, but
that good charcoal timber was running out. In 1811 Fenton recorded that
extensive tree-felling had occurred. Indeed, the estate maps show those
areas of woodland that had been recently felled, thinned and coppiced.
During the 20th century conifers replaced large tracts of what had been
deciduous woodland. Much of this woodland is now Forestry Commission land,
managed as Canaston and Minwear Woods.
Eighteenth and nineteenth century towns
Increasing shipping and other economic activity on the Milford Haven Waterway
was not matched by an increase of land provisions. In particular, the
lack of a major settlement close to deep-water anchorages, and no piers
or jetties to serve large ships, were major problems. As early as 1764,
William Hamilton recognised there was a problem, but it was not until
1790 that an Act of Parliament granted permission to: ‘make and
provide Quays, Docks, Piers and other erections and establish a Market
with proper Roads and Avenues’. This was the beginning of the town
of Milford Haven which was laid out in its distinctive grid pattern. The
relocation of the naval dockyards from Milford Haven to a new site on
the opposite bank of the waterway signalled the foundation of a new town.
This was Pembroke Dock which, like Milford Haven, was similarly laid out
in a grid pattern. The wide streets, and terraced two storey worker houses
and single storey cottages, lend a very distinctive character to the town.
By the mid 19th century continued increasing economic activity and a growing
population led to the development of Neyland. The spur to development
here was the opening of a railway terminus in 1856. Unlike both Milford
Haven and Pembroke Dock, Neyland grew organically with housing spreading
up from the waterway and railway. All three settlements have had to ‘reinvent’
themselves in order to adjust to changing circumstances. The abrupt shutting
of the dockyards at Pembroke Dock in 1926 and the gradual closure of military
installations since World War 2 have had a profound effect on the town,
leading to periods of stagnation. The decline of the fishing industry
from the mid 20th century has had a similar effect on Milford Haven and
Neyland. The three towns now have a ‘mixed economy’, whose
success is reflected in extensive late 20th century housing and infrastructure
development in and on the fringes of the settlements.
Nineteenth and twentieth century coastal defences
Apart from two 16th century blockhouses, the defences of Milford Haven
date from a major period of building from circa 1850-1875 through to the
end of World War 2. Prior to this, military surveyors and lay-people had
commented on the vulnerability of the Milford Haven waterway from sea
attack on numerous occasions. Reports were commissioned and schemes of
fortifications approved, but due to changes in the political or economic
climate, these were never implemented, or halted soon after construction
began. Even the massive fortification programme of 1850-75 had to undergo
several modifications during its construction due to technological developments.
By the end of the 19th century this system was virtually redundant.
Much thought was given to the defence of the Haven following the relocation
of the naval dockyards from Milford Haven to Pembroke Dock in the early
19th century. A new chain of forts was proposed along the fringes of the
waterway, but little was done except for the strengthening of Pater Fort
in the new dockyards at Pembroke Dock, the construction of defensible
barracks outside the town, and by two gun towers flanking the dockyards.
The mouth of the Haven was also defended at this time with four forts
built during the 1850s: West Blockhouse, Dale Point, Thorn Island and
Stack Rock. Forts at South Hook, Hubberston, Popton and Chapel Bay were
built following a report to Parliament in 1858. All these installations
survive, most in a good state of repair. Two massive gun batteries were
added at the mouth of the waterway in 1901-04.
The military continued to use most of the installations constructed in
the mid 19th century up to and after World War 1, with the major gun batteries
constructed in the early years of the 20th century in use until after
the close of World War 2. From World War 1 onwards new installations were
built, often on a massive scale: a submarine mining establishment close
to Chapel Bay Fort, an experimental submarine mining station, barracks
and torpedo testing establishment at Pennar, gun batteries with searchlight
batteries at Soldier’s Rock, a gun battery at Kilroom, an oil store
at Llanreath, a mine depot at Blackbridge and several searchlight batteries,
anti-aircraft gun batteries, machine gun mountings, as well as observation
posts and minewatchers posts were positioned along the coast. At Pembroke
Dock, in the former dockyard, a flying-boat station was established in
1930. Planes operating out of this station played a key role in guarding
the western approaches to Britain during World War 2. The station closed
in 1956. Two flying boat hangars survive, as do many of the other 19th
and 20th century military installations.
The coal industry
Edward (1950 and 1963) and Connop Price (1994-95) have studied the Pembrokeshire
coal industry. The main coalmining areas of Pembrokeshire were Freystrop,
Hook, Picton and Landshipping, with ports at Black Hill Quay, Little Milford
Quay, Hook Quay, Lower Hook Quay, Sprinkle Quay, Llangwm Pool, Landshipping
Ferry, Landshipping Quay, Lawrenny Quay and Cresswell Quay. Until about
1600, the Pembrokeshire coal industry was carried out on a very small
scale. Development continued to be slow, with most pits probably worked
seasonally by farmers and farm workers. Even so, by 1700 coal was the
chief shipment out of Pembrokeshire. In 1800, Sir Hugh Owen erected the
first steam engine in the coalfield at Landshipping. Deeper mining afforded
by new technology led to fewer, larger pits. By 1934, output from Pembrokeshire
was 42,000 tons, and one pit, Hook, employed over 130 men in 1938. In
1947, the British coal industry was nationalised and the Pembrokeshire
field declared uneconomic and all the pits closed. Today apart from quays
at Landshipping Ferry, Cresswell Quay and Lawrenny the physical remains
of the coal industry are few. However, the most obvious legacy of the
industry is the distinct settlement patterns of loosely clustered and
dispersed cottages and houses across the coalfield. Many of the original
dwellings have disappeared, but the settlement pattern provides a strong
component of the historic landscape at Hook, Freystrop, Landshipping and
other locations associated with the coal industry.
The oil industry
Ken McKay in the Pembrokeshire County History Vol IV provides a good account
of the oil industry A rapidly increasing demand for oil products in the
second half of the 20th century resulted in several major oil companies
constructing refineries on the banks of the Milford Haven waterway. Milford
Haven had two advantages over other locations: deep water anchorage for
the increasingly large vessels of the day; and quantities of farmland
on which to build. Esso was the first company to build in 1957, followed
by BP’s terminal in 1961, Texaco in 1963, Gulf in 1966 and Amoco
in 1970, and in the early 1960s the oil-fired Pembroke Power Station was
commissioned. The Esso refinery, the BP terminal and the power station
have now closed. The impact on the historic landscape of these massive
installations has been enormous. Each has been allocated its own character
area, as their construction effectively erased all former historic landscape
components, and they stand in sharp contrast to their neighbouring agricultural
historic landscape character areas. The impact on the seascape of the
Haven has also been profound, with long jetties protruding out into what
was open water. Other character areas are also affected, and not just
by the visual impact the refineries have on their landscapes For instance,
infrastructure requirements have led to the construction of the high Cleddau
Bridge over the waterway, and housing on the outskirts of villages and
towns has been built to provide for a rapidly expanding population.
Tourism and leisure
Parts of Pembrokeshire have been popular tourist destinations for over
two hundred years, but not the Milford Haven waterway area, owing to the
lack of facilities and the absence of accessible sandy beaches. This situation
has improved since World War 2, and in particular since the designation
of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park in 1952, although the numbers
of visitors are low in comparison with the large numbers that flock to
the sandy beaches along the south Pembrokeshire coast. Sailing and other
water-sports are popular leisure activities and are catered for with marinas
at Neyland and Milford Haven, facilities at Dale and Lawrenny and numerous
slipways and quays from which boats can be launched. The Pembrokeshire
Coast Path, which attracts many people to the area, runs along the cliff
tops and shore of the western part of the waterway. Other attractions
include Pembroke Castle, Carew Castle, Picton House and gardens, and other
historic houses and gardens. Visitors often stay outside the area at places
such as Tenby, Saundersfoot, Little Haven and Broad Haven, but bed and
breakfast and holiday cottages are available along the waterway. It is
likely that increasing demand for high quality accommodation will result
in the conversion of existing buildings, such as old farm buildings, into
holiday homes. Camping and caravan sites are also available at Dale, Angle
and Llangwm. The tourist industry is still low key and, apart from installations
such as the marinas, is not a major part of the historic landscape.
Building Materials
Almost all existing pre-1900 houses and other structures are built of
stone with slate roofs. The stone is mainly Carboniferous limestone, with
some Old Red Sandstone, both from local quarries. Roofing material is
mostly imported slate, although some farm buildings are hung with local
stone tiles. Generally worker houses and cottages and smaller farmhouses
are cement rendered whilst larger farmhouses, gentry houses, churches
and chapels are un-rendered. Only poor quality porous stone, that requires
rendering, was available for the construction of houses at the lower end
of the social scale. There are, of course, exceptions to this. Farm outbuildings
are almost invariably of bare stone. No examples of the earth-built and
straw-thatched cottages of the poor described by writers of the mid 19th
century survive. Indeed, the prevalence of masonry construction is the
defining aspect of the built heritage within this part of Pembrokeshire,
and was remarked upon as early as the 16th century. After 1900, a greater
variety of materials are used. Brick replaces stone as the chief building
material, and later in the 20th century concrete, steel and asbestos all
come into use.
Rural domestic vernacular architecture
The predominant type of rural pre 1900 house or farmhouse dates to two
or three decades on either side of 1850 and can be broadly described as
Georgian vernacular. They are of two storeys and three bays with centrally
placed front doors, large, symmetrically placed windows and evenly sized
gable-end chimneys. There are examples of houses in the more vernacular
tradition with an asymmetrical plan and elevation, small windows, one
large and one small chimney, and of one-and-a-half as well two storeys,
but these are not common. These vernacular houses seem to be roughly of
the same date band as those in the Georgian tradition. It is worth emphasising
that the differences between these two house types are subtle and are
applied to a basic common house type. This basic house type is common
to all social and economic classes, and gradations in size as well as
architectural detail provide important clues to the occupier’s social-economic
class. Both house types can be paralleled in other areas of southwest
Wales, although elsewhere houses in the vernacular tradition are more
common than those in the more polite Georgian style.
Single storey worker houses are another manifestation of the social aspect
of architecture. They are found elsewhere in southwest Wales, but in not
in such large numbers as around the margins of the Milford Haven waterway.
Here they are found in both urban (see below) and rural contexts, and
were constructed for urban workers, workers in rural industries and for
agricultural workers. A few examples are occur with informal settlements,
perhaps squatters on common land, associated with the coal industry. These
single storey houses are of three bays with a centrally placed front door.
Detached, semi-detached and terraced examples can be found. Urban examples
are in the more polite tradition than their vernacular, rural cousins.
As noted, some were erected for farm workers, but most lie in the old
coal mining area of Cresswell, Martletwy and Landshipping and were probably
either erected either by owner occupiers or for workers in the coal industry.
They probably date to the middle to late 19th century.
Since the mid to late 20th century modernisation of many of older buildings
and the construction of numerous new dwellings in a variety of materials
and styles has transformed the architectural heritage of the rural landscape.
This is particularly noticeable the close urban centres of Haverfordwest,
Milford Haven, Pembroke and Pembroke Dock where villages such as Hook,
Llangwm and St Ishmaels are mainly 20th century constructs with a small
historic core.
Estate houses, greater houses and polite
architecture
Unlike rural domestic vernacular architecture which is mainly confined
to the 19th century and later, the stock of estate houses, greater houses
and polite architecture within this area exhibits great time-depth, with
examples from the medieval period through to the 19th century. Fortified,
but no longer inhabited, medieval houses such as Castell Coch (Minwear)
and Eastington (Rhoscrowther) lie within the area, as do two of the great
houses of southwest Wales; Picton Castle and Slebech House. The former,
a much modified and medieval castle, and the latter, a late 18th century
‘castle-wise’ mansion, lie in extensive parkland at the centre
of vast estates. However, most of the estate- and greater-houses are much
less grand. Some such as Coedcanlas, near Lawrenny, with its sub-medieval
elements probably originated as the caput of a medieval manor, whilst
others, such as Sandy Haven near St Ishmael’s, an imposing structure
with perhaps 17th century or earlier elements, may owe its origins to
land acquisition and estate building in the early modern period. Indeed,
it is this process of estate building from the 16th century onwards that
that led to the construction of many of the greater houses. Some houses,
as at Sandy Haven and Coedcanlas, were retained, but many were rebuilt
in the late 18th century and early 19th century in the polite Georgian
style, such as the now semi-derelict mansion at Butterhill near St Ishmael’s
and the imposing three-storey house at Jordanston. This pattern of estate
building continued into the 19th century when major houses in the Georgian
tradition, such as Trewarren near St Ishmael’s, were still being
erected and gardens laid out.
The majority of these estate houses and greater houses lie across rich
farmland on both sides of the Milford Haven waterway and are associated
with systems of large, regular fields.
Farm buildings
The vast majority of pre 1900 farm buildings are stone built and probably
date to the middle decades of the 19th century. Surviving earlier farm
buildings are usually associated with an estate, such as the fine ranges
set around a courtyard at Picton Home Farm. The greater acreages of estate
farms required larger farm buildings, and the wealth generated allowed
for better building construction. The most wealthy estates could afford
home farms with extensive ranges of outbuildings often arranged formally
around a courtyard as at Picton. On smaller estates good quality farm
buildings are often arranged around a yard close or in a semi-formal arrangement
with the main house, for instance, the fine range of buildings at Herbrandston
Hall. Most farms are more modest, but usually possess one or two ranges
of farm buildings, sometimes in a semi-formal arrangement with the house.
Examples of small, single ranges of buildings attached to houses are rare,
and this only confirms the theory that the agricultural wealth of this
area was comparatively high. As outbuildings on most farms consist of
barns for the storage of grain and animal houses, they were built when
a mixed pastoral/arable economy was practised. However, barns on modest
farms are smaller in proportion to the overall size of their farm buildings
than those on larger farms, suggesting that arable was a less important
element in the farm’s economy. Very large barns in areas that are
now predominantly pastoral, such as the massive ruined barn at the Sisters’
House, Minwear, indicate that arable was once a major element of the farming
economy.
Since c. 1900, a greater range of building material has been introduced,
including brick and corrugated iron. It is likely that mid 19th century
corrugated iron farm buildings were once a common feature of the agricultural
landscape, particularly round-headed dutch barns, but they now only survive
on smaller farms. Most working farms now have large assemblages of late
20th century steel, concrete and asbestos farm buildings.
There is great variety in the condition of the older, stone built, farm
buildings. Most are in good condition, but a significant number are falling
into decay, particularly where the farms are no longer worked; a smaller
number have been converted to dwellings.
Urban domestic buildings
The two different types of town, represented by the medieval towns of
Pembroke and Haverfordwest, and the 19th century towns of Pembroke Dock
and Milford Haven, contain contrasting types of domestic building. Precious
little survives of pre 1700 urban domestic architecture, but in both Pembroke
and Haverfordwest late 18th century and 19th century two, three, and four
storey Georgian houses testify to the towns’ wealth during this
period. The ‘mixed economy’ of these two towns has resulted
in a greater variety of architectural form: 19th century terraced houses,
19th century commercial/domestic properties of the shopping area, and
houses and other buildings erected throughout the 20th century. Milford
Haven has some elegant Georgian houses as well as many later buildings,
but it is Pembroke Dock that has the most distinctive architectural signature
of any town in southwest Wales. Here terraces of workers houses (one and
two story) flank wide streets laid out in a grid pattern that dates to
the early and mid 19th century. The two storey terraces are in the Georgian
tradition, with greater detailing on the larger, end ‘foreman’
houses. However, it is gradations in size rather than detail that distinguish
the social landscape. At crossroads towards the centre of the town the
terminal buildings of the terraces rise to three storeys. South of the
main town at Pennar, terraces of single storey worker houses or cottages
flank planned wide streets. This type of 19th century terrace house is
found in other towns such as Pembroke and in rural contexts close to the
Milford Haven waterway, but such large numbers are not matched anywhere
else in southwest Wales. Their closest geographical parallel in such numbers
is in some of the towns of southern Ireland.
Churches and chapels
Medieval churches give a very distinctive character to the historic landscape
of the Milford Haven waterway. Most of them have tall, masonry towers,
visible from long distances, often three or more being visible from any
vantage point along the waterway. The density of the medieval population,
and the formality of its manorial system, led to a pattern of small parishes,
each with a large church sometimes supplemented by one or more chapels-of-ease
as formerly existed at Angle, Carew, Dale, Pembroke St Mary and St Michael,
Slebech and Steynton. Some present parish churches originated as chapels-of-ease.
These churches have a shared, distinct morphology. The availability of
locally quarried Carboniferous Limestone led to a massive constructional
technique, of good quality masonry, in which much of the internal space
was vaulted, usually of 14th century to 16th century date. Churches south
of the Milford Haven waterway are normally vaulted in one or more cells,
and usually feature a west tower and transepts with ‘skew-passages’
leading into the chancel. Porches are normally on the south side and vaulted,
and often feature evidence for the former presence of integral, first-floor
parvis chambers. Large, square western bellcotes, forming small turrets,
are an unusual feature practically confined to the region (seen at Minwear
and Cosheston). Churches north of the waterway are similar, but are usually
simpler, often lacking the vaulting, transepts and tower. However, projecting
‘choir-recesses’ either side of the chancel east-bay and projecting
baptisteries in the nave are often present in these churches. These defining
features are almost totally restricted to this region (both seen at Herbrandston,
Hubberston and Johnston). There are three large, aisled town churches
in Haverfordwest, one of which, St Mary, is the largest parish church
in the county and the best quality non-Monastic church in west Wales.
In contrast, the two town churches in Pembroke are relatively small. Carew
church has a ‘West Country’ tower from c.1500. The remainder
of churches in this area are mainly rural, and more ‘typical’.
The churchyards at Angle and Carew contain unusual, late medieval mortuary
chapels. There are a number of closed, deserted or ruined churches, for
example Boulston, Hasguard, Newton North, Pwllcrochan, Paterchurch (Pembroke
Dock), Slebech (19th century) and Upton.
There were five major post-conquest monastic houses in the area. Pill
Priory, a dependence of the Tironian St Dogmaels Abbey, the Augustinian
Haverfordwest Priory, and the Knights Hospitaller church at Slebech survive
to varying degrees, although no evidence of the conventual buildings at
the latter site has survived. The Benedictine Monkton Priory, Pembroke,
survives as a parish church (as, briefly, did Slebech), but there is now
no above ground evidence for the Dominican friary at Haverfordwest.
Many medieval nucleations within the area are clustered around their
churches, for example at Angle, Herbrandston, Llangwm, Rosemarket and
Walwyn’s Castle, but there are others, like Carew and St Ishmaels,
which lie some distance from the church, suggesting that the churches
occupy pre-existing sites. Moreover, some ecclesiastical sites have demonstrable
early medieval origins. Rhoscrowther was the site of one of the seven
‘bishop houses’ of pre-conquest Dyfed and features a possible
late medieval capel-y-bedd over a saint’s tomb. Early medieval chapel
sites possibly include the cliff-top chapel at Angle and the free chapel
at Coedcanlas, while there are a number of Early Christian Monuments in
the region, including those at St Ishmaels and Steynton churches (and
possibly Johnston). Cist cemeteries lie in close proximity to the churches
at St Brides and St Ishmaels.
The impact of nineteenth century church-building and restoration has
been relatively slight. Slebech church was rebuilt and relocated in 1840,
but the new church is now empty. New churches, for new parishes, were
built at Milford Haven and Hundleton, while Pembroke St Michael was rebuilt.
The new towns of Milford Haven and Pembroke Dock were however served by
a number of nonconformist chapels
|