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![Hafod](webphotos/hafod.jpg)
HAFOD
GRID REFERENCE: SN 784743
AREA IN HECTARES: 401.6
Historic Background
In the Medieval Period, this part of the Ystwyth valley
lay in Strata Florida’s Grange of Cwmystwyth (Williams 1990, 57).
By 1513 Hafod Uchdryd was leased as a farm, and a rent roll of 1545-50
indicates that all farms of the former grange were leased out and farmed
as individual units (Morgan 1991, 5-7). This suggests that by the later
Middle Ages the land was not farmed by monks, but was perhaps run along
similar lines to later secular estates. Included in this area is the site
of Peiran Mill (Macve 1998). The Herbert family acquired part of the grange
of Cwmystwyth, including Hafod Uchdryd -later just Hafod - in the mid
16th century (Morgan, 1997, 28). A nucleus of a small estate was thus
formed. It was not until 1783 when Thomas Johnes took up residence that
the name Hafod became synonymous with the naturalistic picturesque movement.
Johnes set about transforming the estate. More land was purchased or exchanged,
a mansion constructed, gardens laid out and walks linking natural and
built attractions constructed, which became the main reason for Hafod’s
fame. Vast tracts of upland were planted with trees and experimental farms
established. No tourist journey to Wales in the late 18th or early 19th
century was complete without a visit to the wonders of Hafod. Artists
and writers were also attracted by Hafod’s fame. The mansion and
other attractions were painted or drawn by many artists. Of particular
note are the set of paintings by John ‘Warwick’ Smith and
the view of the mansion by J M W Turner, though is debatable whether the
latter ever visited Hafod (Macve 1993, 3-7). George Cumberland’s
1796 celebrated description of Hafod is well known. Hafod has continued
to attract the attention of artists and writers: John Piper visited and
painted several views before World War Two, and there is a wealth of contemporary
literature. Of particular note are Elisabeth Inglis-Jones’s Peacocks
in Paradise, and many notes and articles in the Friends of Hafod Newsletter.
The Duke of Newcastle purchased the estate in 1835 (Evans 1995). Later
in the 19th century it was acquired by the Waddinghams. These later owners
ran the estate on more conventional lines, and many of the gardens, walks
and summerhouses so beloved of Johnes fell into disuse. In the 1950s the
Forestry Commission bought the estate and embarked upon a programme of
afforestation. Also included in this area is the historic garden of Cae’r
Meirch (Welsh Historic Gardens Database).
![Hafod](webphotos/hafod2.jpg)
Description and essential historic landscape
components
This is the core area of the Hafod estate. Cataracts
and a narrow gorge characterise the Ystwyth valley at the eastern end
of the area, and at the western end is a narrow flood plain in a steep-sided
valley. The river falls by about 60m within this area down to a minimum
of 140m. The valley sides rise to over 300m. Rapidly flowing streams descend
the valley sides in a series of waterfalls before meeting the Ystwyth.
Valley sides are heavily cloaked in 20th century broadleaf and coniferous
plantations with just a few stands of Johnes’s planting - mostly
beech - surviving. Open areas are few and consist of meadows around the
site of the former mansion and improved (ADAS experimental grassland)
pasture on a river terrace near Dologau farm, and occasional fields of
improved grazing on the periphery of the area.
Prior to afforestation, enclosed land was confined to
the higher, less-steep valley sides and terraces alongside the Ystwyth
and tributary streams. It was generally not present on the steeper slopes.
Dry-stone walls with capstones set at 45 degrees are a distinctive boundary
type. Broadleaf trees, now mature, have been planted at regular intervals
of 12 -15m alongside some of these walls. Both construction of the walls
and tree planting were the work of Thomas Johnes. Other boundaries consist
of earth banks or earth and stone banks, both topped with hedges. The
hedges are in varying degrees of preservation; some are maintained and
stock-proof, other have all but disappeared. All are supplemented with
wire fences. Roadside, mortared stone walls, possibly the work of post-Johnesian
estate owners can be found in a few locations.
Hafod mansion was demolished in 1957, but its site (now
rubble), outbuildings and terraces marking former gardens, are prominent
features of the landscape. There are several listed buildings at Hafod,
mostly estate built dwellings and other structures such as a lodge and
gates, a late 19th century haybarn, late 19th century stables, two cottages,
a walled kitchen garden, an icehouse, a monument and a pair of imposing
late 19th century dressed stone dwellings by Pont-rhyd-y-Groes bridge.
Other buildings include two 19th century farmsteads (no longer working
farms) with houses in the typical late 19th century Georgian vernacular
style – gable end chimneys, central front door, and two windows
either side of the door. One of the above has vernacular traits including
low eaves, small windows and one chimney larger than the other. The stone-built
outbuildings of these farms consist of one or two small ranges. There
are also a few semi detached late 19th century two storey worker houses.
Other Johnesian built elements are less obvious, but
nevertheless comprise important landscape components, and include walks
laid as earthwork terraces on valley sides and as rock-cut shelves on
cliffs and rocky outcrops. The estate drive system has been overlain and
incorporated into forestry drives, except in one instance. Four elements
of the picturesque landscape have been designated Scheduled Ancient Monuments.
The recorded archaeology consists almost entirely of
elements of the 18th and 19th century picturesque and agricultural landscape.
Apart from a Medieval mill site, no time-depth to the landscape is provided
by the archaeology.
The borders of this area are well defined. To the south
and north is unenclosed land, forestry or high ground consisting of large
enclosures. To the west and east is un-forested enclosed land.
Base map reproduced from the OS map with the permission
of Ordnance Survey on behalf of The Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery
Office, © Crown Copyright 2001.
All rights reserved. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown Copyright
and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. Licence Number: GD272221 |